The Experiment

When I first arrived in Korea I didn’t know what my job would entail. I thought that I would be working on Prof. Lee’s project. On my first day I sat down with Prof. Lee and he told me that I would be working on my own little research project. He didn’t give me a specific topic and told me to do some research and think of something to do. He eventually gave me a little bit of guidance by suggesting that I look into the synthesis of metallic nanoparticles.

I was a little disappointed that I would not be working on Prof. Lee’s project because I was looking forward to contributing to a real project and I was concerned that my little research project would just serve to kill time before I returned to Canada.

For the next couple of days I read article after article on nanoparticles until I came across an article which described the synthesis of gold nanoparticles with a silica shell. Prof. Lee’s research uses gold nanoparticles as the charge trap elements of his memory devices and the structure of the particles gave me an idea.

Quick lesson in flash memory:

The basic idea behind flash memory devices is that a charge is trapped between two insulating layers. If a memory cell (one byte) holds a charge then it is in the programmed state, if it doesn’t hold a charge then it is in the erased state. The drawing on the left is the basic structure of a non-volatile memory device (doesn’t need energy to store information) using nanoparticles. The device is constructed on a semi-conducting wafer, generally p-type silicon, on top of the wafer a thin (4nm) blocking oxide layer (often silicon dioxide or hafnium oxide) is deposited followed by a dense monolayer of nanoparticles. A thick (15nm) blocking oxide layer (hafnium oxide or aluminum oxide) is deposited on top. Finally, metallic gates are patterned on top. Each gate represents one memory cell. To program a cell a voltage is applied to a gate, electrons from the semi-conductor flow towards the gate. However, there are two in barriers in the way, the tunneling and blocking oxide layers. The oxides are insulators, which means that a large amount of energy must be added in order for them to conduct a charge, compared to no energy for a conductor and a little energy for semi-conductors. The applied voltage supplies the electrons with sufficient energy to “tunnel” through the tunnelling oxide layer and reach the nanoparticles but not enough energy to get over the blocking oxide barrier. The voltage is applied as a pulse which allows the electrons to reach the nanoparticles but after the pulse, the electrons do not have sufficient energy to tunnel back through the tunnelling oxide layer to the semi-conductor, they are “trapped” in the nanoparticles. The memory cell can then be read by applying a small voltage to the cell and reading the capacitance. To erase the cell, a large negative voltage pulse is applied to push the electrons back through the tunnelling oxide layer to the semi-conductor.

My idea (on the right) was to coat the gold nanoparticles with a thin silicon dioxide coat (4nm) that would serve as the tunnelling oxide layer. The tunnelling and blocking oxide layers are generally deposited by a sputter machine which is quite expensive. My method would eliminate one of the sputter processes as the tunnelling oxide layer would be prepared directly on the gold nanoparticles through a couple simple chemical reactions. I presented this to Prof. Lee and he liked the idea and I was given two goals:

1. Synthesis of gold nanoparticles and the construction of high density monolayers.
2. Synthesis of gold-silica core-shell particles and the construction of a non-volatile memory cell.
   

My first job was to synthesise the gold nanoparticles (GNPs) which was not very difficult as the procedure I used is quite common and involves a couple of simple reactions. As expected, despite the simplicity of the procedure, my first attempt still managed to go horribly wrong. As I was heating my gold chloride solution (precursor of the GNPs) in a hot water bath I heard a loud POP! I spun around to see what had happened when I started to hear a fizzing sound coming from my experiment. The glass bowl containing the water bath had cracked a quarter way around, half way up the wall and right through the centre of the base and water was starting to seep out onto the hotplate. I immediately shut off the hot plate and unplugged it.

With time, and a new bowl, the synthesis of GNPs has become quite routine and I have become the GNP expert in the lab and have taught my colleagues the procedure so that they can continue making their own GNPs when I leave (I have been their supplier for the last couple of months).

The next step was to stick the GNPs to a silicon wafer. This proved to be easy enough. While it was easy to stick the particles, getting them to stick in large quantities and in an ordered fashion took a month to accomplish. Finally, after many experiments I prepared two samples with particle densities that are high enough for memory applications. This was the main goal of my work term as it is essential for my colleagues to have high density monolayers for their research.

Unfortunately, my research has moved quite slowly as it is often limited by the frequency with which I can use the SEM (scanning electron microscope). My particles range from 13-30nm in diameter and can only be seen with an electron microscope. There were many times where I couldn't move ahead with my research until I knew what my results were (what my particles looked like) but could use the SEM once every week or two. This slowed down my work considerably. The extra time allowed me to slowly work on my silica coated GNPs.

The synthesis of the gold-silica core-shell particles was fairly simple as the procedure was well explained in a couple of journals. After the synthesis of the particles I have been pretty much on my own. As far as I know this is a novel idea. I have done a lot of research and read upwards of 40 articles and have yet to find any hint that someone else has tried what I am doing. This is exciting because I'm doing something unique. It also makes it much more difficult as there is no literature on how to stick these particles to a silicon wafer, let alone construct a memory device with them.

Sticking the particles was the first hurdle to overcome. My first attempts were disastrous. It is no fun sitting in the SEM room with the technician as sample after sample comes up blank...not a particle in sight. After reading many articles on the surface properties of gold nanoparticles and silica nanoparticles I designed various methods and a few of them worked, but the densities were not nearly high enough. I am still working on increasing the density of the silica coated particles, but I fear the I will run out of time and will have to leave without constructing a memory device because the particle densities are too low. I have a couple of samples that are ready for SEM imaging and I am quite optimistic about their results, but the SEM operator will be on holidays and there isn't much chance that I'll see the results before the 11th.

In all I have been quite successful, though there have been problems along the way. I cleared the lab in my second week because my cleaning solution started emitting terrible fumes. We evacuated the lab for over an hour to let the place air out. I use a different cleaning procedure now. One of my experiments was delayed when our lab was flooded and we spent the day bailing water out of the lab. We're still not sure where the water came from. Of course there are all of the instances of human error, where the wrong sample was placed in the wrong vial or where vials were knocked over by a clumsy elbow. Though I haven't knocked anything over in a while. I was terribly clumsy around the lab for the first few weeks, but that isn't a problem anymore.

You can see more picture from my experiment here.

Work Shop

Last Thursday and Friday all of the students from the Center for Materials and Processes of Self-Assembly, which includes about a half-dozen of the department's labs went to Vivaldi Park for a work shop. We boarded the "Grandma's bus line" charters, at least that's what I called them after I saw the interior, at 8:30am and arrived at the resort after a rough 2 hour ride.

As soon as we arrived at the resort we headed to the conference room and started the lectures. The conference went until 7pm and consisted of 15min lectures by various professors and researchers with a 10min break every hour and a one hour break for lunch. This made for a very long day. 8 hours of lectures is enough to make anyone drowsy but I was in a particularly difficult situation as all of the lectures were in Korean. We had a booklet with all of the slides, which were all in English (I don't know why), so I would give each slide a look to get a general idea of the research and then I would turn my focus to trying to stay awake. The whole conference felt like a Peanuts episode: "Whaa whaa wa waa whaa aluminum oxide waa wha, waa whaaa, semiconductor waa whaa."

The lunch break provided a short respite. For lunch we had had a type of Korean stew comprised mainly of little pieces of beef and a variety of mushrooms. I was not a huge fan of the meal and only ate enough to satisfy my hunger. We had a bit of time to kill after lunch. I suggested that we go check out the pool. I was hoping to squeeze a swim into the trip, whether after dinner or in the morning. This is the first summer of my life where I have not had a lake or pool nearby at any given moment and added to the fact that the days have been regularly toping 40C with the humidex, I was really missing the water. Unfortunately, the resort did not have just a pool but an entire water park, complete with water slides and a wave pool. On any other occasion this would have solicited a more positive reaction, but this killed my dream of taking a quick dip in a pool, the $30 admission charge and operation hours being the main culprits.

After lunch the lectures started again and I my main focus continued to be my efforts to appear awake and attentive. My efforts were mostly successful until the last hour where I must confess that I may have dozed off for a few seconds, though I was hardly the only one. Mercifully, the lectures came to an end and we headed to the restaurant for supper. I was looking forward to a good supper to cap off the day. Unfortunately, as we entered the restaurant, the same hotplates were on the tables with a similar concoction. Great. This time there was no beef (the only redeeming aspect of the lunch). The beef had been replaced by crab and octopus. Visualy it is probably the least attractive meal that I have ever seen. I am not a fan of seafood, but I have been honest and have at least tried every food that has been placed in front of me. I had already had octopus and squid and did not enjoy it. This time was no different. I had to settle on two bowls of plain rice for supper.

After dinner we headed up to our rooms. The hotel room was quite nice, it was a suite with a kitchen, living room, bedroom (with a small double bed) and an empty room. "How many people in this room?" I asked. Six was the answer. Six? As far as I could tell you might be able to squeeze two people on the bed and then one person could take the the couch. But what about the other three? I was told that they would sleep on the ground, which was the Korean tradition and the explanation of the empty room. I was shown the little mattresses in the closet that would be put on the ground. This news coupled with the full day of gibberish lectures and the less then pleasing meals put me over the top. I was not enjoying myself at all. Fortunately we had a great view of the mountains and the ski hill from our balcony so I took some time out to take a breather.

I knew coming in that the conference would be entirely in Korean. There were three reasons why I agreed on the trip:
1. Free trip outside of the city.
2. The chance to go swimming.
3. The promise of a party in the evening.

The rough trip and poor food discredited #1 and #2 had also been canned. The only hope I had left was for the evening to wash away the day's unpleasantness. the evening started off slowly as we went on a massive grocery run where we purchased a chips, water, beer and soju for each room (see the album to get an idea). But as the evening progressed and more people filtered into our room it ended up being a great evening. We prepared are own samgyeopsal at midnight which was completed with what I was told was a "sweet wine". I tasted the wine and something clicked. I asked for the bottle and sure enough it was kosher wine from New-York. How kosher wine ended up in Korea is beyond me. Discovering that the wine was kosher remains a highlight of my trip in the absurdities category. Throughout the night I would break into a grin or chuckle at the thought of the wine.

One of the best parts of all of this was that I didn't have to be back in my room by midnight! I took full advantage and the last of us went to bed as the sun started its working day around 5:30am. Of course this made the next morning and the subsequent bus ride quite unpleasant as I was still quite tired and sore from sleeping on the floor.

You can see the whole album from the workshop and the athletic banquet here.

Athletic Day

The 19th of June was the Materials Engineering athletic day. All of the graduate students and a few profs took the day off work to get together and play all day. Typing these words still seem surreal, even though I witnessed it... Koreans taking time off work...

Before we moved onto the first official game of the day, a couple of us starting throwing tennis ball around, another guy had a bat so we had a little informal game of baseball going. After my basketball debacle from a few weeks ago I actually impressed a few people as my first hit was a powerful line-drive which spanned the width of the soccer field.

We started the day off with a game of soccer baseball. I was told that this was a game for the girls, so their participation was promoted. After the game though I didn't see any of the girls participate for the rest of the day.

The glory I had attained on the baseball field was short lived as the first game of the day was basketball. I got picked right away by someone who obviously didn't see me play the last time and I got thrown in with the top players. This racial profiling is disturbing. And again I made a complete fool of myself. I hit my first shot, a nice lay-up, which made me dangerously overconfident and I don't think I made another shot after that.

I played the first and third quarters and my team got trounced in each of them. I wonder why. I didn't stick around for the fourth quarter as a couple of the guys had moved back to the soccer field and were throwing the ball around again. They were hitting pop-flies to each other, so I took a few rounds at bat. This time we were using a real baseball and were pitching with a little bit of speed. Unfortunately, we only had a little, hallowed aluminium bat. By the time we were finished, the poor thing was no longer round. One hit in particular put a nice little dent in the bat, that was a strange feeling.

We then moved over to what I thought was a volleyball court except that the net was only waist high. On the court we played a Korean game which is like a cross between soccer and volleyball. It's not the intense soccer-volleyball that is played on the beaches of Brazil, we could only use our legs and head, but the ball could bounce once, in the court, before we could play it. Just like volleyball you had 3 touches before you had to send it over (the ball could bounce in the court between each touch). I wasn't horrendous, but I certainly prefer playing volleyball.

After the soccer-volleyball was the main event, a full game of soccer. The sides were picked and before I could even ask where I was to play they told me to go be the keeper. I guess they had figured me out. I'm not sure how they picked the teams, but the opposite side seemed to be stacked. We had a terrible defence and our offence was worse. That resulted in me getting lot of shots. My first shot came on a two on run break, the ball was crossed and I dove to stop the shot. The problem here is not that I let them score, but that we are playing on a hard dirt field, not grass, my arm is still a little scraped weeks later. In the end I let in 3 goals in the half but stopped twice as many shots. Not too shabby.

I played defence and midfield in the second half as my teammates wanted to take a breather in nets. My presence on the field had no impact on the outcome as our team was simply outmatched. The only event of importance was when I attempted to tackle a player, clipped his foot and went tumbling to the hard dirt. I hit my knee quite hard but got up and walked it off. I thought I would be fine until I looked down and saw that my leg covered in blood. I quickly found a sub, cleaned the dirt from the wound in the bathroom and then went to the medical clinic in the Student Union Building (adjacent to the soccer field). My knee and most of my leg was scraped, but there weren't any big cuts, I just needed to get a bit of gauze and I would be on my way. Instead the lady insisted on cleaning the cut with what I can only imagine was acid and then covered my knee with the most pathetic wrapping I'd ever seen. In the end I was no worse for wear but my playing day was over.

After the soccer game we were to head out to Gireum for a dinner provided by the professors. As I headed back to my lab to get my stuff I saw something that just might convince me to never leave Korea. This beast was parked outside of the engineering building. If I could ride a four-wheeler to school everyday, there's not way I'm every leaving this place. Unfortunately, I've been told that it can only be driven on campus, so I'm still in limbo about the whole "staying here forever" thing.

The dinner turned out to be more of a banquet for the graduate students. The professor who organised the dinner said that cooperation amongst the labs is important and that the banquet was a chance for everyone to get to know each other. To accelerate the process each lab had to go to the front of the room and present themselves and then at least one person person from the lab had to give a little performance. Certain labs sang a song, others danced. One guy sang a song to each professor (something along the lines of "Your so beautiful, to me...") and capped it with a shot with each prof. One guy chugged a bottle of soju (he was in pretty rough shape after that). This concerned me, because we're only 3 in my lab. Yong-Mu is not terribly expressive and I wasn't too sure about Yong-Su as well. This left me in a tight spot. As lab after lab was called up I just knew that they were going to ask me to sing. I just knew it. I was the only foreigner there, my colleagues weren't likely to bail me out. The writing was on the wall. I was starting to sweat. What was I to sing? I'd only had a beer or two and was not in a good state to start singing. I figured I should do something cultural. Something Canadian... but what? And then I had it. Brilliant. Of course I was still hoping that I would not have to subject the crowed to my voice, but at least I was prepared.

Finally, my lab was called up. After we each introduced ourselves and our research, Yong-Mu handed the mic back to me with a look on his face that read "It sucks to be you man." I hesitated and looked towards Yong-Su for deliverance, but when everyone started to chant my name I knew that my fate had been sealed.

"Ok. Ok. I'll sing you a song," I said, as my amplified voice echoed ominously throughout the room. "As you know I am from Canada, but I am also a French-Canadian. In the French culture we have traditional songs that are called des chansons à répondre. For these songs I need the audience to participate. So I need everyone on the table to my right and the first half of the middle table to form one group and the rest of the middle table and the left table to form a second group. Now when I point to the first group I need you to yell our 'Oui! Oui! Oui!' which means 'Yes! Yes! Yes!' in French. When I point to the second group I need you to yell out 'Non! Non! Non!" which means 'No! No! No!' in French. Ok, so let's give this a dry run"
"we. we. we."
"noun. noun. noun"
"C'mon this is a French song! You need to use a little more vigour."
"We! We! Wee!"
"Noun! Noun! Noun!"
"Good enough," I thought to myself.

I steadied myself. Took a deep breath and then threw myself into two verses of Les chevaliers de la table ronde. I had to help them out with the first two rounds of Oui. Oui. Oui. and Non. Non. Non. but by the second verse they pretty much had the hang of it (though without Benoît's enthusiasm).

The two verses complete, I put the microphone down and stumbled back to my seat. My heart was pounding, I hadn't felt like that since the last time I performed at Sam-en-Scène. The feeling was not quite as good as it was mixed with a very healthy dose of embarrassment. Fortunately, no one could understand what I sang and for all they know traditional French-Canadian songs could be sung horribly off key on purpose. At least that's what I hope they think. Looking back though I think it went relatively well, I still have people saying "Hey Andrew. Oui! Oui! Oui!" weeks later.

After the presentations we settled down to our meal. The meal consisted of big slices of beef which were cooked over a little grill in front of us. The pieces of meat were then cut, with scissors, into little chunks which we then ate by either dipping in a sauce or placing on a leaf of lettuce with garlic, kimchi and various sauces before consuming. It was amazing. I still think that tak kalbi is my favourite Korean food, but this is a close second.

We finished up at the restaurant around 10pm and while a few of my friends returned to the university to do some more work, a bunch of us finished the night off at a nearby bar. Of course I left early to make it back by midnight. Lovely.

The War Memorial of Korea

The next Saturday (June 7th) I visited the War Memorial of Korea. Luckily I had made a friend who didn't work on Saturdays, so I was to meet up with Jin at 1pm at exit #11 at Samgakji station. I arrived at the station right on time but could not find exit #11. There were exits 1 through 6, but nothing else. Thinking that the 11 must have been a typo, I went to exit #1. Jin wasn't there, but I thought she was just running late. After 15 minutes of waiting I went to find a pay-phone to call her. Again, these phones had the T-money logo on them, so I inserted my card into the slot: "Wrong Card." This time I kept my cool and gave the phone a closer inspection, in addition to the sticker on the phone, there was also a little ledge at the bottom of the machine with the T-money sign. T-money cards are used by either swiping them or scanning them. I simply placed my T-money card on the little ledge and like magic a balance showed on the screen and I got a dial tone! I was so proud of myself. I put the phone to my ear, picked up the napkin with her number and started dial... Silence. I had lost the dial tone before I had punched the first number. I hung up, picked up the card, placed it back on the scanner, got a new balance, quickly picked up the phone, dialed 1, 2, 3, 4 numbers... Silence. Damn! Ok one more time, I did everything as quickly as possible and managed to dial the whole number before the thing died. The phone rings once...Silence. ARRRRRRRRGGGHHH. I slammed down the receiver and went back to exit #1 to see if Jin was there. She wasn't. As I headed back to try another pay phone I heard the phone I had just left ringing. Having had bad experiences with picking up Korean phones in the past (I'll explain that another time), I elected not to pick it up (I know, I know). I tried to get the next phone to work but it wouldn't even let me finish dialing before it died on me. Same thing with the 3rd phone I tried. Finally, after about 10 minutes of fighting with the phones I slammed down the receiver and went outside to find someplace to break a 1000 won bill. Once I had some change I went back to the phone and successfully called Jin. Fortunately she was still waiting for me at exit #11, though she was just about to leave. Samgakji station is at the intersection of lines 4 and 6. Unlike the Montreal metro, the lines aren't necessarily one on top of the other. So I had to walk for about 5 minutes through an underground tunnel to get to the Samgakji station of line #6 where exit #11 is located.

The War Memorial was a five minute walk from the metro station. The War Memorial is a huge complex with monuments surrounding the front courtyard, a museum in the main building and war vehicles and equipment in the back. We purchased our tickets and entered the first exhibit: Memorial Hall. The memorial was in a dark room with a large basin of water in the centered which was illuminated with a ray of light penetrating from a hole in the centre of the cupola-ceiling. It was very beautiful and humbling. I took my camera out to take a picture, but it was in video mode. I changed it to the photo setting and...NO! NOT AGAIN! HOW COULD I LET MY BATTERY DIE A SECOND TIME?

There's an old saying in Korea — I know it's in Canada, probably in Korea — that says, fool me once, shame on... shame on you. Fool me — you can't get fooled again.

So sadly I have zero pictures of the War Memorial and the rest of the day. I'll have to keep my narrative short and rely on external links.

My impression of the museum is the same as from the National Museum, the amount of history is overwhelming. We started at the beginning of Korean history with your standard ancient weapons: stone axes and knives, arrow heads, bronze to iron weapons, the first explosives and so on. The important wars between Koreans and other Koreans, Chinese or Japanese, Pirates, Thieves and Raiders, Martians and Mongols were all chronicled, well all but one. The history was interesting, but was difficult to put in perspective due to my limited knowledge of Korean history. I found the birth of gunpowder weapons was the most interesting part of the early exhibits. I enjoyed seeing the evolution of very crude cannons to sophisticated weapons which could fire dozens of arrows at once. Trying to figure out the engineering and how the machines worked was half the fun. A scaled down replica of General Yi Sun-Sin's (one of the most revered Korean's of all time) famous turtle ships, which were vital in defeating the Japanese navy and their attempt to conquer Korea at the end of the 16th century, was another personal favourite.

The museum also had a little replica of a Korean fort. The walls were perhaps as tall as myself (it was probably built with kids in mind), but you could still walk on the walls and get an idea of what the fortresses used to look like. "No wonder Koreans keep getting attacked, your forts are too small," I told Jin, trying to be funny. All I got in return was a puzzled look. I have yet to tell a successful joke to a Korean, regardless of how explicit it may be, let alone the subtle absurdities that I prefer.

The second half of the museum was devoted to the Korean War. The exhibit had relics and representations of Korean life during the war years. The exhibit also chronicled the events of the war, this was the most educational part of the visit. It truly is the forgotten war. I consider myself more historically knowledgeable then the average, but I was humbled by my ignorance of this war, despite the fact that Canada committed the 3rd most foreign soldiers to the war (behind the US and the UK). I had no idea how close both sides came to conquering the entire peninsula at various points in the war. Shortly after the North's surprise attack, they pushed the South Korean (ROK) forces to the southern extreme of the country before the UN - American led forces pushed the North all the way back, recapturing Seoul, then Pyongyang before pushing the North almost all the way into Manchuria which would have unified the Korean people. However, before the ROK could boot the communists out, the Chinese got involved and surprised the UN forces and pushed them back, recapturing Pyongyang and then Seoul. The UN forces regrouped, pushed the Chinese back and re-recaptured Seoul and after a bit more fighting both sides signed the armistice. It was the back and forth nature of the war that really surprised me.

It's interesting to note that officially, and in the minds of many Koreans, the war is not technically over and has yet to be resolved. However, it seems that most of the younger generation (at least those that I have talked to) seem to think that unification isn't realistic or desirable. They consider the Nothern Koreans to be a separate people now, they speak a slightly different language now and they have developed different cultures and beliefs as well. Cultural differences aside, South Koreans also seem wary of the economic disaster that would accompany unification since the South would certainly have to spend a lot of resources to prop-up and rebuild a unified North Korea. The economy is terribly important to Koreans.

I found it all very sad. The Koreans suffered through nearly a half-century of a brutal Japanese occupation and were finally freed in 1945 with the fall of the Japanese Empire. However, in only five years, they were convinced to take up arms and fight each other over the ideals of the US and the USSR. As far as I'm concerned, it wasn't really a Korean war, rather it was the American and Soviet's war being waged with Korean blood. It really speaks to the power of propaganda, because I'm sure that both sides were convinced that they were liberating their brethren from the oppressive capitalist or communist rule.

The end of the exhibit had a room dedicated to the foreign nations that fought alongside the ROK. Each nation had its own display showing the uniforms worn by their soldiers as well as information on their contributions and losses. Of course, I had a particular interest in the Canadian display, though a few other countries caught my attention. Colombia and Ethiopia in particular seemed out of place, didn't they have enough problems at home? The foreign nations exhibit also contained the most powerful piece in the museum, the Tear Drop. The tear drop was made out of dog tags of soldiers who lost their lives in the war and the tear was wrapped in barbed wire.

We were both a little tired after finishing the historical part of the War Memorial. I didn't have much interest in seeing all of the tanks and artillery machines and had already seen the special traveling exhibit, The Dead Sea Scrolls, in Ottawa, so we left he Museum and headed to Itaewon.

Itaewon is a popular district for foreigners as the American military base is near by. While most of Seoul is incredibly homogeneous, Itaewon is not. Walking through the streets I saw people of almost many different nationalities, heard many different languages (even a bit of French from a few Africans) and at long last smelt different foods. The even had a few Shawarma places! We stopped at an Italian restaurant and I had a nice chicken cheese steak which I enjoyed to the fullest. After dinner we headed over to the Rocky Mountain Tavern. The tavern is owned by a couple Canadian ex-pats and I discovered it on-line back in January because I was concerned that if I was in Seoul that I would miss the Sens' playoff run and thus needed somewhere to watch the games. In the end, I didn't need to bother. The bar was distinctly Canadian. There were totem poles outside the main entrance and the walls of the bar were covered in Canadiana: Hockey sweaters and sticks, Tim Horton's mugs, snowshoes, antlers etc. I was also looking forward to some good Canadian beer. I was expecting anything fancy, just the standard Molson Canadian or Labatt Blue, but they had neither. All they had was Moosehead (which I'm not a huge fan of) and Alley Kat (a small brewery from Edmonton) as well as a few Korean beers and your standard International selections. I was a little disappointed in the selection, but the bar didn't let me down. It had a very comfortable feel and I did feel a little like I was back home. They also serve poutine, but I'll have to return on an empty stomach to sample it.

After RMT, we headed to Bar Nana, a cool little Jazz bar where we ran into Tania's friend Natasja and her friends that I met the week before in Myeong-Dong. It's a small world. In the end I got home at 1:30am. Gasp! I missed curfew. Oh well, 2 demerits down.

Rendez-Vous

She may not need an introduction for some of you, but if you don't know her, allow me to introduce you to Tania Vogel. Tania and I worked together at Bearbrook pool last summer and together we combined to offer the highest quality socials to the staff (not like those pathetic little events that the Dream Team would come up with). Tania is an avid traveler and after having toured around Asia with her family she stopped by in Seoul for a few weeks to stay with one of her best friends, Natasja Mackwood (who I'd only met briefly at a party last summer) who is teaching English in Seoul. When we found out that we would both be in Seoul at the same time we made sure that we would meet up at least once.

Tania sent me a message when she arrived in Seoul and we planned on meeting Saturday (the day after the last day of Kookmin's festival). She was going to be out with Natasja for a friend's birthday and I was to meet up with them after their dinner. I was to meet them at 10pm outside of Carne Station, a restaurant in Myeong-dong, a popular shopping district with a great night life. 10pm is a little late for me to be going out, but I had already decided that I would not be back by midnight and that I would either get the demerit points or I would sleep in the lab.

By the way, I've ruled out trying to sneak back into rez after midnight. This is what they do to the doors at night, I wonder what to do in case of a fire...
-Regular electric lock
-Chain with a padlock
-Wooden bar

Now back to my night out. I had received directions to the restaurant from Natasja:

Exit #7 at Myeong-dong station. Check.
Walk down the street with the CK store. Check.
Turn right onto the street when your street ends. Check.
The restaurant is in the basement of a building on the right hand side of the street. Hmm.
Maybe it's further down the street.
Maybe just a little further.
A little further?
Ok, this street is getting a little sketchy, there are no more lights.
I think I've gone too far.

I'm now late, so I went into the first metro stop I found and used a pay phone. I didn't have any change with me but I wasn't worried, I had my T-money card. T-money cards are great, you put money on it and you can use it to take the bus or the metro, you can use it with pay phones, vending machines and even in convenience stores. The phones that I found in the metro had the T-money logo on them, so I took the phone off of the receiver and slid my card into the slot. "Wrong Card." I flip the card over. "Wrong Card." I was confused, why was the phone not accepting my card? I tried another phone. "Wrong Card," it told me again. I tried two other phones but they wouldn't take my card either. Since I couldn't get a phone to work, I decided to retrace my steps and try and find the restaurant and hope that Tania was still there.

I was almost back to the street with the CK store when I saw a group of foreigners standing around. Unfortunately neither Tania or Natasja were with them. I asked them if they knew where Carne Station was. They said that it was in the building that we were standing in front of, but that the restaurant closed at 10. I thanked them for their help and walked towards Myeong-dong to look for another pay-phone. I found a bunch of phone booths and tried each phone and not a single one would take my card. After I slammed down the phone and exited the last booth I saw the same group of foreigners. They asked me if I was able to get in touch with my friend. I told them how I could not get a pay phone to work, so one of the guys offered to let me use his cell phone.

I called Natasja and asked for Tania. Unfortunately, Natasja and Tania were heading home because Tania was feeling sick. Apparently Carne Station is an all-you-can-eat and all-you-can-drink restaurant for only $25. The catch is that you can only be there for 2 hours. That's a lot of pressure to put on yourself and I guess Tania took full advantaged and payed the price after.

I was disappointed that I came all the way to Myeong-dong and wouldn't see Tania as I handed the phone back to the guy, but I was more curious by the people around me at the moment. I got a few strange looks as I said hello to Natasja and asked to speak with Tania. Ends up I was in the company of Natasja's friends. They had just left the restaurant when I first ran into them and I just missed Tania. They knew that Tania was waiting for a friend so they invited me to join them for the rest of the night. They were heading to Daehango. I declined their invitation though. It was getting late and I decided to get home before they shackled the doors. I didn't want to use up my demerits if Tania wasn't there.

I did meet up with Tania in the end though. We had lunch on Tuesday. I took her to the Tak Kalbi place in Daehagno. It is still by far my favourite Korean food. It was really nice to talk with Tania because it was the first time in a while that I could talk like a normal person. I have to be careful to talk slowly and to keep my sentences as basic as possible when I speak to Koreans. At times I catch myself talking like them and I slap myself. It's one thing to speak in sentences that are stripped to the bone, its another to start talking in fragments, and I'm certainly not doing them any favours by talking like that.

Ok. I finished. We talk later.

Festival

I showed up in Seoul at the perfect time of year. The weather is perfect (25C pretty much every day), its not too humid yet, and Kookmin was having its annual end-of-the-year festival. This was only my second week at work (May 26-30), and while I had already met many people, the first few days of the festival allowed me to meet many more.

The spring term at Kookmin ends mid-July (they then get 2 months off before school starts again in Septembre). Every year the university has a big festival before the end of classes. Its a little like OAP, just much bigger. During the day there were many activities on campus, including a basketball tournament. Unfortunately I was in the lab all day and couldn't participate much. On Tuesday and Wednesday evening the entire campus turned into an open air pub. Each faculty had its own little areas set up outside of their respective buildings. After work, I would head outside and hang out until midnight and have a few beers with all of the engineers, all the while trying to avoid the soju as much as possible. It felt a lot like OAP except that you could actually find a place to sit and you didn't have to stand in line to get a beer, it was brought to you. It was the perfect opportunity to meet new people and use my rock star appeal. Being a foreigner really paid off as I didn't pay for any food or drinks either night as I wandered from table to table as people introduced me around. Then again, I don't think I ever saw anyone pay for drinks, I'm not quite sure how that worked.

I was particularly looking forward to Thursday evening, the night of the concert. I had seen the posters for the concert all over campus the previous week. Koreans tend to add the set list to concert posters (I've seen this for a couple of different shows) which really got me interested. The set included such classics as Come Out and Play, The Kids Aren't Alright, Tick Tick Boom, Sweet Child O' Mine, Hysteria and Stockholm Syndrome. I didn't want to miss an opportunity to see Koreans trying to cover The Offspring let alone giving Muse a go.

I left work just be for 5 and headed up to the concert. The stage was set up on the lawn in front of Bugak Hall, the main building on campus, or at least the most imposing building. I arrived just as the first band was finishing up their sound check. As I was heads and shoulders above everybody else, I got myself a nice spot in the back facing the middle of the stage. There weren't many people at the show yet so I was only about 10 meters from the stage. The first band steps up to the mic: Let the show begin!

"Sit down? Are they asking us to sit down?" I don't ever think I'll ever go to another concert where the band asks the crowd to sit down before diving in to Come Out and Play by The Offspring.

The first band had spunk, I'll give them that, but both their English and playing needed a little polish. This is their first song: Come Ourra Pway
(Not offensive because that is how they talk in movies*)

Don't worry if you didn't catch most of the words, they weren't all there. The singer only really knew the more memorable lines. The end result was more ARHGHRAHRH ARHHFHARHA ARHA ARH come out and play!

As I said before, what this group lacked in skill and elocution they made up for in spunk. This was most evident in their closing song Tick Tick Boom by the Hives. Now if you don't know who the hives are you only need to know that their lyrics move quite quickly. This was not an ideal song for these guys, but they sure got the screaming down.

The second band was much stronger then the first and only sang Korean songs. The third band was stronger again, as the quality of the show slowly improved. The third band was certainly one of the most entertaining bands as the lead singer jumped around stage, did power slides and all of the other standard rock and roll moves. His credibility did take a hit when his moves resulted in him hitting the stage unexpectedly and missing a few lines, but it was entertaining. Also, notice the sweet behind the back action of the lead guitarist and the rhythm guitarist's sick power stance. Rock On!

Two bands played Muse. The first one performed Hysteria, a rather forgettable experience which I did not record. The second band played Stockholm Syndrome and did a pretty good job of it (it takes a fair bit of talent to play a Muse song half decent). I got a big kick out of seeing these Korean guys play Muse. Few people in Canada know about them, but I've been told that they are very popular in Korea and Japan.

As the show progressed, I realised that it was just a collection of local amateur. It started to remind me of Sam-En-Scène, except with more music and more talent, plus everyone was Korean. The Sam-En-Scène comparisons really hit home after the beatboxer and hip-hop dance routines. The show also had a really good acapella group, an amazing singer who sang some Sinatra classics. Of course, a talent show wouldn't be complete with out Sweet Child O' Mine.

Just as it was starting to get dark a band came on stage and the singer asked us all to stand up! Everyone rushed the stage (I was afraid I would get trampled) and the band started playing. These guys were pretty good. I thought that they were the closing act, maybe some local professional band.

They were pretty good, the singer was a lot of fun and they crowd really got into it. It was a good end to the concert.

Wait. What's this? Another band? O.K. These guys seem to be pretty big, the girls are screaming. Hold on a sec, the guys are screaming too? These guys are best described as pretty-boy-pop-rock (though the guitarist did have a nice PRS). Here they are playing the famous Korean rock anthem: #1.

I thought for sure the show was finished when these guys left the stage, it was dark and the show had already lasted at least 3 hours. I was wrong, again. After these guys came another band, and another, and another. I can't really remember exactly how many, but they all seem to be pretty popular. One band in particular came out dressed in what I can only compare to those fluorescent coloured track suits that we used to wear in the 90's. The best way to describe their music is korean-indie-funk-pop-rock-rap-fusion. They were a lot of fun (I regret not taking any pictures or video of them) and I'm about 85% certain that their band's name was Napoleon Dynamite. I'm not 100% certain of it, because I never learned the names of any of the other groups, but they kept repeating "Napoleon Dynamite" in their set without any obvious reference to the movie, leading me to believe that that was in fact their name, which is awesome.

At various points during the concert, in between sets, an older, more professional looking guy would talk to the crowd. I can only assume that he was some kind of representative from the university, but my main problem with the guy is that every time he came on stage he would make everyone move away from the stage and spread out so that we could sit down to listen to him. This would always take a couple of minutes as there was close to 2000 people at the show, and after his 45 second talk another band would come on stage and every one would get back up and rush back to the stage. Each time this happened I found myself further from the stage and from the centre. It didn't bother me too much since I could easily see over the heads of everyone in front of me.

The older guy wasn't all bad though, he did throw out glow-sticks to almost everyone in the crowd just before my favourite act.

On doit changer de langue pour présenter mon groupe préféré de la soirée. Encore une fois j’ai de la difficulté à définir un genre pour ce group. Leur style se rapproche du rap, mais avec un style coréen. La meilleure façon de décrire ce group est qu’ils sont le fun. La raison pourquoi j’écrie en français et le moment saillant du concert se trouve ci-dessous.

Entendre la chanson des Stroumpfs à l’autre bout du monde est l’un des meilleurs moments de mon voyage. Je n’aurai jamais imaginée que la b-d de Peyo serait reconnue par des milliers de coréens.

La prochaine vidéo est le dernier numéro du groupe et le dernier numéro que j’ai assisté. Après c’est gars c’était un rapper qui a pris la scène. J’ai trouvé qu’il essayait d’être trop américain et il était tard, alors je suis retourné chez moi.

Friday night was the last night of the festival. The open air pub was only on the Tuesday and Wednesday. Thursday and Friday were concert nights. I had enjoyed the concert the previous night but the Friday night concert was headlined by a famous Korean rapper. Most of the people I talked to were very excited that DJ Doc was coming. I saw a few of his videos on YouTube and decided to pass on the concert.

In the end my opinion of DJ Doc would be inconsequential when Kwan Woo, another student from Han's lab on the first floor, told me that we were going out to dinner and then to a bar with his cousin that night. I was supposed to meet Kwan's cousin the previous Saturday but all the new Korean germs decided to have a field day with my western immune system.

We met Kwan's cousin, Jin, at Daehango and then had supper at Bennigan's. We had a really, really good steak and even though it was a western restaurant, we ordered once for the whole group. By one order I mean that there was 1 salad, 1 plate of fries and 1 steak and we all ate off of the same plate. It was very interesting. I wasn't about to complain though, the steak gave a much needed boost to my struggling taste buds (more on Korean food at a later date).

Jin and I both had a beer with dinner, but Kwan only had a lemonade. I was beginning to get suspicious of Kwan's motives. Finally I asked Kwan why he didn't have a beer and he told me that he had to go back to work after dinner (it's almost 8pm on a Friday night). After dinner we wandered around looking for a bar and I was able to convince Kwan to come in for one beer. After his second beer, we left the bar and Kwan bid us adieu as he had to return to the lab (these people would keep working through a nuclear holocaust).

"Feels a lot like a blind date eh?" Jin asked me after Kwan had left. "I think so." I replied. (Jin didn't actually say "eh?", but I have no idea how else to finish that sentence.) We wandered down the street to find another bar, and that was when I discovered one of the strangest things I have ever seen.

The picture you see here is an alcohol kiosk. A little stand on the sidewalk which sells mixed drinks in plastic bags. I know. So you walk up to this place and ask for, say, a Bailey's and milk, the guy mixes it for you, sticks a straw in it, seals the bag and then you're set to stroll the streets with your drink. I know. You can drink anywhere in Seoul. You can buy a beer at a corner store and then sit at the tables out front and drink it (just don't even think about bringing back to rez though). You can wander the streets with a drink if you so please. I had a huge smile on my face as I walked through Seoul with my Bailey's and milk wondering what would happen if I did this in Montréal. Jin told me that they also set up bars on the sidewalk at night. I thought she meant that the bars had patios, but in fact these places are little tents that are set up on the sidewalk which serve food, beer and soju.

We spent the rest of the night in a proper bar with walls and a roof. We had a great time. Jin has traveled all over Europe and Germany in particular so we spent a lot of time talking about Europe and other countries and cultures. She also described her musical preferences as jazz, bossa nova and the blues, more fodder for conversation. And as always I was back in my room by midnight.

You can check out the rest of my pictures from the festival here.

*A quote from The Office, thus not offensive...again.

Insa-Dong

I met up with Han around noon on the Sunday (the 25th of May) and

we took the bus to Insa-Dong. Insa-Dong is a market that sells traditional Korean art and has many little shops and cafes. We met Sara and Cindy (a graduate student from Han's lab) at a restaurant where we had a cold noodle soup with clams. Not my favourite meal so far.

After lunch we walked around Insa-Dong which is a pedestrian street, a little like Spark's Street. There were many little shops and street merchants, buskers and a parade. The parade was interesting as everyone was dressed up in traditional Korean clothes and beating Korean drums.

We stopped to watch a busker for a few minutes, I had trouble following the act though. The guy was dressed up as a woman and was talking in a high pitched voice and was handing out some type of toffee. So your guess is as good as mine.

The street was full of activity, many of the street vendors were quite interactive, giving demonstrations or little performances to sell their wares. One little shop sold Korean sweets which are made of an almond-paste core wrapped in what I can only describe as silk honey. They started off with a solid chunk of honey into which they worked a small hole and then stretched it into a loop. They then folded the loop in two, making two loops. They then stretched the two loops and folded them to make four loops, then eight, then sixteen... They must have repeated this about 15 times (2^15=32768) until he hand a hole armful of fine strands of honey. All the while, the 6 guys behind the counter had a whole routine worked out where they would count the number of loops and make jokes throughout. It was really entertaining. We bought a box of the almond sweets and they were quite good.

Another vendor was selling rice cakes. As with most things in Insa-Dong, the cakes were prepared in the traditional fashion. The traditional way being a man beating the (insert expression of choice here) out of the rice with a giant mallet. My friends wanted me to have a go, so they asked the guy to let me try. I went up and grabbed the mallet as the guy showed me where to hit. I lifted the giant thing over my head (if you think the thing looks heavy, its heavier) and I closed my eyes, prayed that I would hit the target and swung down with all of my might. CRACK! The sound of the mallet hitting the rice paste was deafening. I was quite proud of the sound. I took the mallet up again to try and improve on the effort and to show the Koreans what Canadian strength is all about. Unfortunately I must have gotten a little cocky as the mallet didn't come down perfectly square and it just bounced off of the paste with an emasculating 'thud'. And thus ended my rice pounding career.

Just wandering around Insa-Dong was quite pleasant, we got to see a lot of Korean art and food. I'll certainly be returning at the end of the summer to pick up a few souvenirs before I leave Korea. Cindy left us around 3pm as she had to prepare for an interview on Monday.

When Cindy left had reached the end of the market. Han, Sara and myself decided to visit Changdeokgung Palace which was a 10 minute walk from Insa-Dong.

Changdeokgung Palace (also known as the East Palace) in one of the 5 royal palaces built in Seoul. The palace was completed in 1412 and occupies over 500 000 square meters of land. It was not the main Palace of the Korean Emperors, except for a period in the 18-19 century during which time the main palace was rebuilt following a Japanese invasion. I'll spare you the rest of the history of the palace. Check out Wikipedia for more information.

You have to visit the palace with a tour guide, you can't just wander around at your leisure. Unfortunately, there were no more English tours when we arrived so we took a Korean tour instead. It wasn't terrible as Sara was able to translate the most important aspects, but I still feel like I missed out on a lot of interesting things.

The palace itself was nice but I wasn't all that impressed. The buildings were interesting but not terribly ornate or impressive. The court yards were large, but again not all that impressive. After having visited large European palaces like Versaille and Shönbrunn and castles like Neuschwanstein, I was certainly underwhelmed. We couldn't go inside the buildings, we were forced to cram around the windows to see into the King's bedroom or the throne room.

The throne room was quite interesting though. In the video above, the throne room is the large building that I am facing at the beginning of the video. The room had beautiful wood working and beautiful paintings on the walls and ceilings. The throne was also identical to the one I saw at the National Museum of Korea. I had already snapped a few pictures of the throne room when Sara relayed to me that the painting behind the throne is the same image that is found on the 10 000 won bill. I took my camera out again to take a closer picture but it wouldn't turn on. I was terrified that I had already broken my new camera. Ends up the battery was just dead... 10 minutes into the 2 hour tour. Turns out plugging the camera into my computer doesn't charge the battery. "Lesson learned," thought the fool.

It really is unfortunate that my camera died because as unimpressive as the palace buildings may have been, the gardens were absolutely amazing. Changdeokgung is famous because it was not built like Versaille, in its symmetrical and artificial beauty, rather, it was built to be in harmony with its natural surroundings. I almost felt like I was at the cottage as we walked through the trees on the dirt path. The gardens are certainly a highlight of my trip so far. My favourite place in the gardens was a square pool with a circular island slightly off-centre. The pool represented the sky, and the island, the earth. The pool was set at the bottom of the hill and in front of the royal library. It just felt like the perfect place to relax and read a book in the shade on a summer afternoon.

After we finished visiting the palace we were pretty tired. We then had to choose what to do before dinner. We had two options, go to a traditional tea house in Insa-Dong or go see the new Indiana Jones movie in Daehangno (we had talked about it the night before). I wanted to see the movie, but I also thought it would be a good to experience more Korean culture. None of us could really decide what to do, so I flipped a coin. Heads: Indiana Jones. Tails: Tea House. I caught the coin...Heads.

The movie experience is the same as in Canada, except for the Korean subtitles and the assigned seating. Oh and the chairs were built for Koreans, which meant that I had to sit with my knees up by my ears. The movie was a lot of fun, but I left the theater feeling conflicted, if you've seen the movie you probably know what I'm talking about. It was fun, but the story left you feeling...

After the movie we went out for supper. We had Tak Kalbi, which is like a chicken stir fry at your table with rice noodles and vegetables. After you've cleaned up most of the chicken and noodles they bring out some rice and they stir that in with the leftovers. It is by far my favourite food in Korea. And they use CHEESE. I was so happy when I saw the little bowl of grated yellow goodness. Korean's don't use cheese quite enough.

After supper we made our way back to the dormitory and that was that.

You can see the rest of my pictures from Daehangno and Insa-Dong here.